Category: Outfitting

Strapping on Boats

Any of you out there ever experience this….?

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An easy solution is to have a daisy chain handy (black & white) to extend your strap that extra little bit.

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August 24, 2016 | 0 Comments More

Factory Spotlight : Glide Paddleboards ~ Made in the USA

The Glide manufacturing facility is located in Salt Lake City, USA.  On a recent trip I was lucky enough to get a brief tour and see how the boards are made!  Scroll down through the pictures as I will have caption for each image to describe the process.

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Come on in and check out how the nicest SUPs are made!

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Right away you get the feel that these Glide guys have an artistic side and are ready to play…

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It all starts with these large foam blocks.  Sourced locally from another SLC manufacturer.  These large blocks are sliced up to make many SUPs.  Any and all scraps from this process are piled up and donated back to the local foam factory for them to re-use.

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This is their CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machine.  It uses lasers to cut away excess and leave the board shape.  They will do a batch of top sides, then take the time to reset the CNC and later do a batch of bottom sides.

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It looks like snow, but it’s just foam.

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When they come out of the CNC machine the shapers go over the foam to smooth the boards out just a little bit.

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Here are the boards after the talented shapers have glassed them and sanded them down.  They will do a batch of top sides, then after they are dry, do the bottoms.  Glide uses Entropy Resin to reduce environmental impact.  See more here… Entropy Resin Explained.  Then, the sanding process smooths down the edges.  In this picture you can see that the tops of the boards have an additional layer which helps the foam deck stick so well.

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Time to select the correct foam deck for your comfort, grip and artistic inspiration.

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This one looks nice.

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Careful masking of the foam before they get sprayed.

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They go into this chamber of yellow to get the GSS (Glide Surface Sheild).  This is sprayed on and does a fantastic job of protecting the boards.  It’s a patent pending coating that will make these boards last a lot longer than you would imagine!  More about it here… GSS

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Finished boards are stacked up and ready to ship.  Just keep in mind that these SUPs are not going to be making the overseas voyage in a flatulent freighter.  Made in the USA!

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June 29, 2016 | 0 Comments More

Using Patch N Protect to repair canoes.

This is a great material to work with.  A pair of scissors will trim to desired shape.  Use a heat gun to warm it up so that it becomes pliable.  Peel off plastic film to reveal the sticky back surface. Apply the patch and massage into the repair zone with a leather glove.  Heat and rub it in cautiously to finish.  Or course you want to have the surface clean for best results.

This Wenonah Champlain canoe needed some vinyl repair and now it’s sealed nicely.  It will surely get more years of use now that this ugly damage has been patched.  This is a quick and easy repair to do.

 

This Bell Yellowstone canoe was wearing a bit thin before adding Patch N Protect.

If you are interested in ordering you can from the web link below.

http://geminimaterials.com/patch-n-protect

 

 

January 17, 2016 | 0 Comments More

Mad River Outrage X cont’d

The next step has been taken for the custom outfitting of the Mad River Outrage X Canoe.  The photo below shows the removable pedestal in the installed position.  It can come out pretty easily by undoing the strap, as shown in the next photo.

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And finally below you can see the float bag system…

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April 30, 2013 | 0 Comments More

Mad River Outrage X Installing D-Rings

This is a look at the canoe during deconstruction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are the materials needed for installing D-Ring anchors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sketching out a plan…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a Heat Gun to warm the D-Rings and Royalex before glueing.

November 28, 2012 | 0 Comments More

Esquif Blast Outfitting

From left to right, the removable bow saddle (held down by the purple strap), the extra wide solo saddle (glued in with contact cement), and the stern saddle (also glued in).  When paddling this boat solo, simply stow the bow saddle under the bow float bag.  This gives the paddler more cockpit space.  Paddle this boat until you find a willing partner and take 1 minute to install the bow saddle with the straps!

 

Another angle…

Here is a close up of the solo setup.  You can see the  Northwater  toe blocks, which have 5 settings for adjustability.  The saddle was glued to become larger, then carved with a bread knife, rasp then sandpaper.  This makes for a comfortable seat during the flat paddling sections.   There are 5 Northwater anchors installed as well.  This was done by pre-sanding the canoe, then cleaning the area with isopropyl alcohol, applying vinyl adhesive, and then holding the bond tight for a while.  Generous knee foam blocks were installed with simple sticky back peel-offs.

A close view of the bow saddle with the purple straps threaded thru the Northwater cam anchors.  This saddle butts up against the middle saddle for some more friction.

I drilled a hole in the saddle with a long bit, threaded this re-used (no more buckle) strap thru the hole and added a cheap clip.  Once hooked in it is reasonably solid.

April 26, 2012 | 0 Comments More

Foam Ankle Supports for C-1

Anyone who has spent time in a C-1 knows that a bit of extra comfort can go a long way.   Using minicell foam and a few basic tools, these ankle supports can be created.  The tools used for this are a saw to cut the blocks to size.  A rasp to create a bit of a contour in the foam.  Some sandpaper to clean up the foam.   Contact cement works well for the adhesion.  I like to use a respirator when working with the contact cement.

 

Once you have the supports made to your liking, place them in the boat and get in it to see where to place them.  Use a pencil to mark the right spot for your body.

Here’s the finished product before the glue-in.

 

December 29, 2011 | 0 Comments More

Triple Saddle in an Open Canoe

A triple saddle can be very advantageous in the right boat.  It allows you to paddle the canoe solo by sitting in the middle, or tandem by sitting in the bow and stern.  These photos show a Blue Hole Sunburst that is around 14 1/2 feet long.  Anything larger would be a chore to paddle solo and too much smaller would be a squeeze for two people.   All saddles make for a comfortable and high performance seat.  This example shows a system that features a removable front saddle, one that is clipped and strapped in.  You can easily take the front saddle out for the solo setup and then have more room and workspace in front of you.  See the Esquif Blast Triple Saddle Post  HERE  This is nice for bailing water out, as well you will then still have space to lean forward to set up for a roll or just to hang out and breathe underwater!  If you look at the photo closely you can see that the foot pegs for the middle saddle would get in the way of the knees for the stern paddler.  It’s not hard to slide them off towards the stern.  When paddling solo I like to leave the bow saddle in the boat, under the float bags, in case I find a partner who wants to join forces!

 

December 29, 2011 | 0 Comments More

Materials, Tools and Techniques

Here are many of the materials you might need to outfit your open canoe for running rivers.  Notice the vinyl D-Ring anchors with Vinyl adhesive, plastic deck eye loops (black) with rivets, and parachute cord.  These items, once installed, will give you a way to secure floatation bags for water displacement and have a means to install thigh straps.

 

Making your boat comfortable and customized to your body makes you a happier paddler.  If you plan on spending a decent amount of time in your boat then the time put in to outfitting pays off quickly.  Minicell foam is a great way to improve comfort and performance.  This can be glued to boats of many different materials.  Usually contact cement work fine for most materials.  The photo above shows an ideal way to cut it….on a bandsaw.  You can also use a breadknife or saw.

 

December 20, 2011 | 0 Comments More